By Dara Clariza Evangelista
Traveling is one of life’s simplest pleasures. There is something grounding about leaving your routine behind, something healing about spending unhurried time with someone you love, and something quietly joyful about being welcomed into a family not your own. When those three things come together, the trip stops feeling like a getaway and starts feeling like a shared memory in the making.
We spent the days between Christmas and New Year in Bacolod, my boyfriend’s home province, where nearly his entire extended family lives. With nine aunts and uncles and a full roster of cousins, it was almost impossible for the trip not to revolve around food. The trip quickly became a mix of three things: a food trip, quality time, and finally getting to know his family in a deeper, more meaningful way. Bacolod made that feel effortless.
While my boyfriend’s family already had a trusted list of favorites, I still did my own research, knowing we were in one of the best places to eat in the Philippines. We made sure our days always left room for long lunches, early dinners, and spontaneous detours that often ended with someone smiling and saying, “Let’s eat again.”
Inasal and Co.
Order: Regular Paa Inasal and garlic rice
If you prefer your chicken inasal juicy and indulgent, Inasal & Co. is worth a stop. Often described as the “child” of Aboy’s, it sits right across from its parent restaurant. I did not get to try Aboy’s this time, but Inasal & Co. more than delivered. The chicken was tender, well-marinated, and generously smoky, the kind you keep reaching for even when you are already full. It is an easy crowd-pleaser, especially when eating family-style around a full table.
Eron’s Cansi House
Order: Cansi and pork barbecue
Eron’s cansi was the undeniable highlight of the trip. Rich, sour, deeply beefy, and comforting in a way that stays with you long after the bowl is empty, it is the kind of dish that quietly ruins all other versions. Paired with their pork barbecue, perfectly grilled with just the right touch of sweetness, the meal felt almost unreal. It was so good we would go back without hesitation. The cousins loved the bone marrow it also came with.
Azucarera
Order: Seafood paella and house lemonade
Azucarera offers a more polished dining experience while staying grounded in local flavors. The seafood paella is generous and well-balanced, with properly cooked rice and fresh seafood, while the lemonade is bright and refreshing, cutting through the richness of the dish. It is the kind of place you choose when you want something elevated but still relaxed.
Bebang’s Batchoy
Order: Extra special batchoy with egg
Though technically outside Bacolod, Bebang’s Batchoy in nearby Talisay ended up being one of the biggest surprises of the trip. Batchoy is not something I usually order, but my boyfriend insisted. The extra special version, topped with an egg, was rich, comforting, and incredibly satisfying. It also had delicious bone marrow mashed into the soup. It was the kind of dish that makes you rethink foods you normally skip.
Aida’s Manokan
Order: Chicken inasal (Paa)
Aida’s is a Bacolod institution for a reason. Their chicken inasal leans slightly drier than other versions, but it is deeply flavorful, well-seasoned, and finished with that unmistakable smoky char. Once you drizzle it with the classic chicken oil, everything comes together in that unmistakable “this is why people travel for this” moment. This is the inasal you try to understand the traditional style that helped put Bacolod on the culinary map.
Beyond the dishes themselves, what stood out most was how genuinely happy everyone was to feed you. From family members carefully planning meals to servers who clearly took pride in watching people enjoy their food, there was a shared sense of joy in the act of eating. No rush, no pressure, just generosity on every plate.
Bacolod is a city where food becomes the language of family and care. Between full tables, shared orders, and being welcomed into my boyfriend’s world one meal at a time, the trip felt like a reminder that Filipino food is best experienced slowly, generously, and with people who truly want to see you eat well.
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