By Dara Clariza Evangelista
At some point in her life, every girl dreams of an Elie Saab gown. Maybe she’s nine, watching her first red carpet moment on TV, or twenty-nine, scrolling through couture shows in between meetings.
The fantasy is always the same: sweeping tulle, glittering embroidery, an unapologetic embrace of romance. No other designer holds that space in our imaginations quite like Elie Saab.
For Paris Fashion Week Fall 2025, Saab turned that fantasy into a breathtaking reality. His latest haute couture collection, La Nouvelle Cour, is a love letter to old-world opulence, delicate, dramatic, and deeply feminine.
Inspired by 19th-century silhouettes and courtly elegance, the show was staged beneath marble columns and golden staircases, with harpsichord music setting the tone for what would unfold: fifty looks of sheer splendor.
The show opened in striking black velvet, sculpted, corseted, and seductive. These pared-down looks grounded the collection in quiet power before giving way to romance in full bloom. Macaron shades of rose, mint, nude, and water blue swept across the runway, contrasted by bold strokes of imperial black and glimmering gold. Floral appliqués, crystal embellishments, and pearl-dotted necklines added texture and richness at every turn.
And then there were the silhouettes. Gathered trains, voluminous capes, and barely-there chiffons floated with movement. Every dress was crafted for presence—for the woman who doesn’t just arrive, but enters. Saab’s references to the Victorian era never veered into costume territory; instead, they paid homage to history while embracing modern red carpet drama.
Of course, the Saab signature is ever-present: timeless glamour, intricate detail, and silhouettes that honor the feminine form. It’s why women like Angelina Jolie, Sarah Jessica Parker, Marion Cotillard, and Princess Maria-Olympia of Greece continue to choose his gowns for their most photographed moments.
At 61, Saab is no longer trying to surprise—he’s refining a legacy. “La Nouvelle Cour” doesn’t chase trends. It offers something rarer: a fantasy realized through craftsmanship, consistency, and complete commitment to beauty.
And at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2025, Elie Saab reminded us all that glamour will always have a place in fashion—and that the girl who once dreamed of velvet and pearls still lives in all of us.
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