By Dara Clariza Evangelista
At London Fashion Week, Simone Rocha turned the runway into a dreamy mix of mischief and elegance, introducing what she called the “disgruntled debutante.” The mood was less about dark romance and more about a girl who knows how to bend the rules while still looking chic.
Rocha drew inspiration from a 1992 essay about a young girl reluctantly slipping into her mother’s clothes — a story she connected to her own childhood memories of pulling her mom’s petticoats up to her armpits to mimic a gown. That playful defiance came alive on the runway with sparkly bra tops, gauzy hoop skirts, and even leather pillows hugged like accessories. It felt girly, a little rebellious, and totally relatable — like couture that doesn’t take itself too seriously.
Here are six standout looks that brought Rocha’s comfort in couture vision to life:
- Balletcore Rebellion
A sheer blush organza blouse tied at the shoulder layered over a sparkling bralette, with a full tulle skirt cinched by a red sweatshirt at the waist. Finished with red Mary Janes, it’s equal parts ballet dream and streetwise cool.
2. Dark Bloom
A black off-shoulder top paired with a voluminous bubble skirt, softened by oversized pastel roses at the hip. Hugging a matching pillow, the look mixes gothic romance with girlish whimsy.
3. Playful Power Dressing
A puff-sleeve black blazer tops a scalloped white mini skirt adorned with pastel blooms. A crystal headband and velvet Mary Janes add sweetness, proving power dressing can also be soft and playful.
4. Disco Comfort
A silver sequin tent dress with a loose, easy silhouette that glitters like a disco ball. Paired with transparent sandals, it’s pure laid-back glamour.
5. Garden Muse
A satin ivory gown transformed into a canvas for a single sculpted flower, with its stem running down the bodice. Oversized sleeves give a relaxed elegance, turning nightwear ease into couture poetry.
6. Glittered Innocence
A pale green floral frock paired with sparkling silver sequin opera gloves. The contrast of innocence and mischief makes it feel like sneaking sequins into Sunday best.
Instead of her signature ruffles and pearls, Rocha lightened the look with sheer fabrics, bloomers, and boyish briefs. Bustles and panniers gave shape, while plastic raincoats and quilted bed jackets added a wink of practicality. The whole effect was youthful, slyly sultry, and surprisingly comfortable for couture.
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Miss Jay-Ann is on the cover of STYLISH Magazine’s special Women In Style cover edition as she talks about her business, vlogging, and her luxury bag collection — from Chanel to Hermès.
Read our cover story here.
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