By Cedie Lazaro
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s return to Fendi is more than just a high-profile job swap—it’s a homecoming for the designer who helped invent the very idea of the “It-bag.” After a decade-long stint at Dior, where she was the house’s first female creative director, Chiuri is now back in Rome to lead the brand where her career began.
The Full Circle Appointment
In October 2025, LVMH officially named Chiuri as Chief Creative Officer of Fendi. This move followed the transition of Silvia Venturini Fendi into an Honorary President role. For Chiuri, who started at Fendi in 1989 at the age of 24, the return is deeply personal; she spent ten formative years there under the mentorship of the five Fendi sisters, learning the “pragmatic and creative” approach that has defined her career.
A Debut of “Pragmatic Femininity”
Her debut Fall/Winter 2026-2027 collection, presented in Milan in February 2026, was a sharp pivot from the brand’s recent colorful eras.
- The Look: Dominated by black, white, and nude, the collection focused on “palate-cleansing” basics: airy shirtdresses, sharp tailoring, and utilitarian cargo shorts.
- The Message: Under the mantra “Less I, More Us,” Chiuri emphasized collaboration over ego, featuring slogan T-shirts and football scarves developed with artist Sagg Napoli.
- Sustainability: Fur returned to the runway but with a modern twist; the house clarified that all fur pieces were remodeled from existing skins, reflecting a commitment to circularity.
The Rebirth of the Baguette
As a co-creator of the original Baguette bag in 1997, Chiuri has wasted no time reclaiming her legacy. At Milan Design Week 2026, she unveiled the Baguette 26424 Re-Edition, a series of 26 archival-inspired designs that use softer “parchment” leathers and intricate hand-embroidery.
Recent Collections: Cruise 2027
Her latest work, the Cruise 2027 collection, was unveiled via a short film titled Oltre lo Specchio (Beyond the Mirror). Set in a rationalist Roman building, the collection features a gender-fluid wardrobe of oversized trenches, silver-painted denim, and tactile waxy leathers designed to be shared between men and women.
Should we focus our next piece on her revival of the Baguette or her gender-fluid approach to the new Fendi wardrobe?
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